When we look at the history of football, one nation stands out above every other. Brazil have won the World Cup five times, a record, and have produced not just some of the best players of all time, but arguably the greatest of them all. But they are more than just a successful side; they have defined the sport in the imaginations of generations of children across the globe. O Jogo Bonito – the beautiful game – the phrase that most emphatically defines football, was popularised by Pelé himself. When people think of the way the game should be played, they think of Brazil. So it may be surprising to learn that this journey began, just over one hundred years ago, in Devon. And it wasn’t supposed to happen at all.
In the summer of 1914, following the example of several more successful European sides, Exeter City accepted the invitation of a nascent Argentinian FA to tour the country. These tours were lucrative for all involved, and despite being in the Southern League at the time, Exeter were chosen as a “truly representative” example of English football.
Fifteen players set off for Argentina, but almost didn’t make it at all. Their ship stopped off in Santos, where the entire squad was arrested, having not realised that public swimming was illegal. Fortunately for the history of football, they were released and went on their way to a successful tour of Argentina. Despite not having initially been invited to Brazil, their popularity prompted a few games to be organised as the Grecians stopped off on their way home, the first time an English professional team had played in the country.
The first game was against a group of English expats, a simple 3-0 win for the Southern League side, and the second was a more competitive 5-3 victory against a side representing the clubs of Rio de Janeiro. For the third, Rio and Sao Paulo joined forces, something of a surprise given the rivalry between the two cities, to present a side made up of their best players. This side is now recognised as the very first Brazilian national team. The Estádio das Laranjeiras – Fluminense’s home to this day – was chosen for the auspicious occasion.
The footballing authorities saw the game as a good test before an upcoming international tournament in Argentina, but it was more than practice to the fans. 10,000 packed into the 6,000-capacity stadium – and onto it, with no room even on the roof – to see their side in brilliant white shirts with a blue stripe on the arm; Brazil wouldn’t adopt their famous yellow shirts until after their defeat in the 1950 World Cup final.
When Oswaldo Gomes opened the scoring for the hosts, the thousands went wild, “waving hats and walking sticks, and in the stands ladies and young girls waved handkerchiefs, shouting hurrahs” according to local newspapers. Exeter responded, displaying all the cynicism that would hamstring English football for nearly half a century, by making the game for physical, reportedly causing facial injuries to star Brazilian striker Arthur Friedenreich, costing him two teeth. His suffering, however exaggerated, has become a touchstone for Brazilian football, standing up against the imperial injustices of the Europeans. He responded by finding Osman for Brazil’s second, after which (according to the Brazilian story), Exeter descended into violence, but to no avail.
The final whistle saw the players carried off on the shoulders of the crowd and praised for the “mastery” of their style in undoing the English professionals. They were proclaimed national heroes.
And in most nations, that would be that. A victorious introduction to international football, part of a sporting history but not a part of the national ideology. But Brazil was different. It had been truly independent for only 25 years in 1914, and because of its size it was unwieldy and difficult to unite. Travel was a challenge, with the most reliable method of going from north to south still being by steamer along the coast, and the different regions acting, in some ways, as autonomous states. Brazil was desperate for an outlet, an identity on which they could pin their nationhood. And in these national heroes, they found just that. Which is why in Brazil, more than any other nation, football reigns.